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He is no longer with Lunati but says that the voodoo line "really works". He then formed his own company called Ultradyne Cams, and from what I have read, he is a "cam designing genius". He designed cams for Comp Cams back in the 70s. It seems that a guy named Harrold Brookshire is the one who designed them. I've done some research on the new Voodoo line of cams from Lunati. If you have 4.10s and a 2500 stall convertor it would work a lot better. It will sound bad ass but will have wasy less low end torque than your stock cam. I think that thumper cam will be disappointing in daily driving where most of your time is spent under 2500 rpm.
#Cam 350 chevy full
So any cam with more lift than that won't be able to reach its full potential. PS: The cam, intake, and afb carb were all installed at the same time 8 to 10 years ago.For 79 the heads are PROBABLY 882s.
#Cam 350 chevy trial
You did answer my trial and error question. I may look at trying the advance timing light and track time. I have an old Craftsman timing light which I bought in 1985 and it only has one function. Currently the engine starts and idles very well. Of course then I will probably have a starting problem. I haven't tried advancing the distributor until the engine knocks and then backing it off. Of course this is going off the scale on the engine pointer scale. The shift point on this automatic is about 5000 rpm and this is impoved buy change the timing from 11 deg to 15 deg.
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I have reset the timing this morning to about 15 deg at idle. When I reconncet the vacuum advance I get even more advance when I rev the enginve. The mechanical advance works when I rev the engine the timing advances. I had set the timing to 11 deg btdc at idle of 500 rpm with vacuum advance disconntected and capped. I'm opting out, to give experts with experience with your combination to offer input. Timing is manually adjusted for best performance under the new conditions such as an intake upgrade, and there is no substitute for experience.
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Asking for a base timing spec for a customized engine is like asking for tire pressure specs for drag slicks. A four-gas analyzer can give you insights, but at high RPM and load, mixture information will be useless as it only gives you a way to improve emissions quality and fuel economy, and above 4000 rpm will only tell you if fuel starvation is the issue. At most a chassis dynamometer and ignition oscilloscope. If you were to ask for equipment which could help automate the task, it would be digitally adjustable timing system or at least an electronic spark control with knock sensor. With any custom application, all static settings are achieved by tuning. What you must understand is that with the info you supply I can give you possible causes for the behavior of the engine. In my personal experience, ignition base timing has very little to do with high RPM performance. The closest piece of equipment to accomplish the task of tuning is an advance timing light and track time. There is no chart that will tell you precisely what your spark lead should be as it reaches or passes 4000 rpm except for experience with the exact combination you have, and all things considered, the Edelbrock specification is a perfect place to start. In a nutshell, the way to achieve the best ignition timing for any gasoline engine that deviates from factory stock compression, intake or exhaust upgrade, fuel quality, or general design purpose is just that - trial and error. The carb might be at least part of the problem. Air charge velocity is much higher in dual-plane manifolds and so vacuum signal is more reliable to the carb power circuits than with an open single plane manifold. a new intake's plenum type (open vs split) might adversely affect fuel requirement and you may now be running too lean at high RPM especially under heavy loads. Unless it is connected to ported vacuum, vacuum advance is used for modifying idle to part throttle transition timing, so will not cause your particular problem except under no-load conditions.ĭon't rule out the possibility of fuel starvation. Vacuum advance should only be used to raise idle speed when hot and never to ported vacuum. An advance recurve set might be useful - remember that different springs only change the advance rate, and the advance limit is determined by the design of the weights regardless of the strength of the springs. Worn centrifugal advance bushings can cause excess mechanical advance. Total advance at high rpm and light-to-no load can be as high as 30 degrees without causing ignition cutout. This advance angle adds to vacuum advance, which ranges to as much as ten degrees at high vacuum conditions (but not under load, in real world conditions). You should monitor the ignition timing all the way to high RPM because centrifugal advance takes over at speeds above about 2100 RPM.